Jacob schoexhof



(No Model.)

J. SGHOENHOF. PANNIER AND BUSTLE.

Patented Feb. 27, 1 883.

INVENTOR:

VITNESSES:

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IITATES JACOB SOHOENHOF, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

PANNIER AND BUSTLE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 273,165, dated February2'7, 1883.

Application filed May 3, 1882. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, JACOB ScHoENHoF, acitizen of the United States, residing at the city, county, andState ofNew York, have invented certain Improvements in Panniers and Bustles, ofwhich the following is a specification.

This invention is in the main an improvement on the skirt and pannierdescribed in my Letters Patent of May 9, 1882; but some of the novelfeatures are applicable as well to panniers and bustles not combinedwith a skirt.

In my patent above referred to I described and claimed a skirt havingruffles or gathered strips secured to the back breadth of the skirt attheir upper edges and ends, and having springs or spring-wires insertedin pockets in their lower edges, to cause said ruffles tostand out andimpart the required expansion and rotundity to the dress of the wearer.This feature I do not herein claim. I find, however,

that when springs are arranged in this manner--that is to say,constrained to stand normally bent-they will, in tending to straighten,chafe and wear the textile material against which their ends abut, andeventually protrude through the material. This pressure and wear is alsovery much increased by the pressure thrown upon the arch of the springby the wearer in sitting down. I find, also, that this difficulty is notobviated by capping the ends of the springs with sheet metal or otherclips, as is commonly practiced, as the ends will in any case eventuallywear their way through the material.

One of the principal objects of my present invention is to remedy thisdefect; and the means employed for the purpose will be hereinafter morefully described.

Another feature of my invention relates to means for giving the pannierthe proper rotundity at the upper part independently of theinternallacing below. This feature will be more fully hereinafter described.

In the drawings which, serve to illustrate my invention, Figure 1 is aside View of a combined skirt and pannier provided with myimprovements,and Fig. 2 is an interior fragmen tary view of the upper portion of thesame. Fig. 3 is a fragmentary plan view of the under side of one of theruffles or gathered strips. Fig. 4 is an enlarged detached view, showingI the attachment of the end of the spring to the material of the pocket.Fig. 5 is an end and underside view of a clip for securing the spring.

Let A represent a skirt, and B B represent ruffles or strips attached tothe back of the same. These strips are gathered at their upper edges,where they are stitched to theskirt, and sewed fast to the skirt attheir ends. In their free lower edges, which are full, are formedpockets to receive the springs, (shown at a in Fig. 4.) The spring ismade a little shorter than the pocket which contains it, or the lengthof the free edge of the ruffle-strip, and its ends are clamped orsecured fast to the material of the strip, so that it cannot play andchafe the material, while a portion, b, of the material is left at eachend of the spring to flex and yield to any movement of the spring. Tosecure the spring to the material of the strip B, I prefer to employa'clip, c, of sheet metal, constructed substantially as shown in Fig.5-that is to say, having three lips or flanges, two to take over thesides of the spring and one to take over its end. An eyelet or rivet topass through the spring and materials, and to be clinched down, might,however, be substituted for the clip; or, indeed, any other means forsecurely fastening the spring to the material may be employed. Thisconstruction prevents the spring ends from chafing and wearing away thematerials, and yet allows the ruffle and spring full play, as a whole,by reason of the flexible portions 1) between the ends of the spring andthe point of attachment at the side seam. There areother advantages alsoarising from the employment of these flexible portions 1). These allowthe ends of the springs to yield readily at the slightest pressure, andthus protect the dress of the wearer from being chafed. They also permitthe ruffles, when accidentally pushed up, to fall back again freely.Where the springs are not thus arranged the ruffles, when pushed up, areapt to remain so until pulled down.

. In my former patent I showed a lacing device arranged inside of theskirt and extending from top to bottom, whereby the protrusion of thesprings might be regulated. I find, however, that with this constructionthe lateral enlargement of the body at the hips tends to flatten thepannier at the upper part; and this strain, acting upon the lacingbelow, causes'the springs to stand out unduly at the lower part. I

To remedy this defect I provide a lacing device (see Fig. 2) for thelower portion of the pannier, and provide an independent tie orstraining-piece, d, at the upper part, to extend down, by preference,below the hips, as shown. I have shown this as a simple piece of clothstitchedat its sides to the skirt, and tending to maintain a certainnormal curvature in the springs on the outside, as will be wellunderstood. Two or more bands of webbing or other material might beemployed in lieu of a single strip, or two flaps laced together might beused. This would enable the strainingpiece to be adjusted; or the twoflaps might be connected by means of buckles. My object is to make thisportion of the pannier independent of the lacing below for the reasonsgiven.

As before stated, I do not herein claim a combined skirt and pannier, asthat is shown in my former patent; nor do I limit my improvements to askirt and pannier combined, as they are adapted to all other kinds ofpanniers and bustles. In the present case the back breadth of the skirtmay be considered the body portion of a pannier.

I claim as my invention- 1. A pannier provided with gathered strips B,secured to the body of the pannier at their upper edges and ends, andthe said strips provided with springs at their free edges, as shown, theends of said springs being secured rigidly to the material of the stripsat a little distance from the end fastenings ofsaid strips, wherebyflexible portions 11 are provided, substantially as set forth.

2. The combination, with the skirtA and gathered strips B B, secured tothe skirt, as shown, of springs (1, arranged in pockets in the freeedges of said strips B, and the clips 0, arranged to secure the ends ofthe springs to the materials of the strips B at a little distance fromthe points where the ends of the said strips are secured to the skirt,substantially as set forth, and for the purposes specified. i

In witness whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence of twosubscribing witnesses.

JACOB SOHOENHOF.

Witnesses:

HENRY OoNNET'r, ARTHUR O. FRASER.

